Guideline to buy a used piano

Buying a used piano can be like buying a used car—there’s a lot to consider. And both require a version of checking under the hood. Although with a piano, you might find it a little tricky kicking the wheels.
Start by asking the owner questions. And locate the serial number. This will help you confirm facts.
Even when you know what you’re doing, there are still some things only a qualified piano technician can judge effectively. So feel free to print this checklist and use it when you’re looking. It assumes you know how to remove the outer case to look inside. But before you actually buy, have a qualified technician look it over too. That way you’ll know exactly what you’re getting.
Beauty is More than Wood Deep
The piano you buy should appeal to your own sense of taste and fashion. Everyone is different. So ask yourself:
Do I like the style? Is it attractive? Will it fit the décor of my home?
Then look over the woodwork.
Make sure the finish is not marred or damaged.
Check the hardware. Are any pieces missing? Is everything fastened tightly?
Is the piano missing any casters? What condition are they in?
Does the bench match the piano? Are the legs tight? Does it feel sturdy?
A Fling with Strings
Strings are the source of sound. Their condition is important. First, look to see if any are missing. Then check for rust.
Strings that are slightly tarnished or a little rusty are okay. But a lot of rust, especially on the coils or at bearing spots will cause broken strings. On the other hand, too many new looking strings may suggest a problem with breaking strings too.
Name that Tune
With pianos, beauty is not just in the eye of the beholder. It’s also in the sound. A piano that’s been neglected can be expected to go flat. But if it’s way out of tune, it may also be a sign of loose turning pins. Only a technician will be able to tell you this for sure. In the mean time:
Do the tuning pins look uniform? Can you see if there are obvious replacements? If so, the pin block might be going bad.
There should be at least a 1/8” clearance between tuning pins coils and the pin block.
Signs of gummy stains may suggest the use of chemicals to temporarily tighten the tuning pins.
If you can remove the fallboard, look underneath the pin block for signs of cracking and splitting.

The Bridge Over Troubled Waters
The bass bridge is your biggest concern. It’s normal to have some hairline cracks around the bridge pins. But too many cracks will dislocate bridge pins and may represent the need for a new bridge or bridge cap.
A piano with a loose bass bridge will have a weaker tone on one end of the bass section.
Also check the treble bridge for serious cracking.
If the piano is very old, check wooden upper bearing point for cracks.

Does it Crack you up?
Ideally, you want a solid structure that’s free of cracks. Cracks suggest that the piano’s structural integrity has been compromised. This will lead to multiple problems.
Check the lid for cracks. Then check the legs and test the piano for rocking. Too much rocking is a warning sign.
Look for separations or splits in the bottom edge of the rim of a grand piano, or for a large crack in the back of the top horizontal beam of a vertical piano.
Look for cracks in the plate, both in the struts and in the tuning pin area. Although a cracked plate is rare, repairing it is costly and usually not guaranteed.

A Resounding Sound
Even though you may be unsure of your visual checks, all is not lost. Although it’s no guarantee, a clear, resonant sounding piano is a good sign.
Play all the keys from end to end, listening for evenness of tone across the keyboard. Are the bass notes clear and resonant? Is there any buzzing or rattling?
Don’t just be lucky, get plucky:Press down on a key that begins an octave above middle C. Hold it down and pluck one of the three strings of the note you’ve chosen. The sound should swell right after the pluck and soften as the string vibrates in a clearly audible tone for at least five seconds. If the sound stops in less than three seconds, the soundboard may impaired or the scale improperly designed.
Look for cracks in the soundboard. More than a few unrepaired cracks are a concern.
Wooden shims in cracks suggest the piano has been rebuilt. Make sure there aren’t new cracks next to the shims.
Make sure the soundboard is glued around the perimeter.
Make sure ribs are still firmly glued where they cross cracks.
Any measurable soundboard crown is a positive sign, but there are still some good sounding pianos that have no measurable crown.

It’s in the Details
The keys, hammers, action, damper and regulation get a lot of use. So it’s important to check them for wear and tear.
Keys to success
Are the key tops ivory or plastic? Are any key tops missing, chipped or damaged?
The keys themselves should be square and evenly spaced.
Physically manipulate each one checking for minimal wiggle. Too much left-right movement may indicate the need for new key bushings.

Melody to your ears
Test the keys by playing them for a normal sound. Note any that are sticking or sluggish. This may indicate there are some parts missing, broken, or unglued.
Then try playing them softly. If the action does not play consistently at a soft level, the action may need to be adjusted.
Play all notes staccato, except those with no dampers (upper 15-20 notes) They should cut off cleanly. If there’s a buzz or continued ringing, the dampers may need to be adjusted or replaced.
Check repetition on several keys by playing the key rapidly with alternating hands while pressing on the right pedal.

Where the action takes place
When checking inside look for consistent spacing and alignment of action parts.
If the piano was made before 1960 and has plastic action parts, don’t buy it unless the plastic parts are post 1960 replacements.
Check the hammers, dampers and other felt parts for moth damage.
Make sure the bridle straps on vertical pianos look in good shape and are in place.
Check hammers for depth of grooves, amount of felt and correct number of string dents. Hammers that wobble may indicate that string dents are misplace or unclear. A clicking noise or up and down movement may indicate loose hammer heads.

Pedal Power
Pedals add special emphasis and lend emotion. They add life to your music.
Right pedal: Dampers should move together when the right pedal is pressed down.
Middle pedal: The middle pedal sustains notes. When it activates a true sostenuto (sustains only the notes played when the pedal is pressed) on a vertical piano, the piano is probably a higher quality instrument. If it does not activate a sostenuto on a grand piano, the piano may be a lower quality instrument.
Left pedal: The left pedal moves hammers closer to strings to quiet the piano in verticals or shift the keyboard in grands. If the left pedal on a grand operates only the bass dampers, it often represents a lower quality instrument.

To test the sostenuto:
Press down on the right pedal to lift dampers, and then press down on the middle pedal. Keep it down while you release the right pedal. The dampers should remain raised.
Extra Points to Ponder
The lost motion compensator in vertical pianos keeps action in adjustment when the soft pedal is used. It usually indicates a better quality older piano.
Make sure the grand pedal lyre is not coming apart at the glue joints.
Also check to see that lyre braces are in place and the lyre feels secure when pedals are used.